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Backpacking Clothing and Equipment
Key Points
•Weight-Your total pack weight should not exceed 40-45% of your body weight. This is a maximum number; aim for even less. Try to reduce the total number of items you have to carry and deal with. At the same time, don't skimp on the essentials of food, clothing, and protection from the elements. Make your cuts in the areas of personal entertainment, toiletries, duplicate items, and those "just in case" extras. We have included a list of things to consider leaving behind. Keep in mind Thoreau's maxim, "Simplify, simplify."
•Equipment Quality-Good quality gear can mean a lot to both your comfort and safety in the field. But quality equipment need not cost a fortune. Big ticket items like packs and sleeping bags can be rented from larger outdoor shops or university outdoor programs. Renting is a good way to field test gear before you make a purchase. If you do buy, get the best you can afford and plan on many years of use. Discount and surplus stores can be a good source of synthetic or wool clothing, but don't rely on these places for tents, packs, sleeping bags or boots. For these essentials you will need to visit a specialty shop with a trained sales staff. Even equipment from top manufacturers goes on sale in the off season. Once you have the basics, much of what you need can be found around the house. A Tupperware bowl, a sturdy spoon, and an insulated mug from the gas station down the street will take care of all your eating needs, and you probably have a good deal of adequate clothing already. Remember, moving from an urban setting to the wilderness should be an act of reduction, not accumulation.
Group Gear: (These items can be provided by the Yellowstone Association Institute)
•Tents-Sierra Design dome tents. (Weight, approx. 7lbs.)
•Stoves-Single burner "MSR Whisperlites" with fuel bottles and fuel.
•Bear ropes -50' lengths for hanging all food and food preparation items at night. (Note: you will, however, need to provide a suitable bag to contain your food. See below.
Personal Gear: (You will need to provide the following equipment.)
•Tents-You may, of course, bring your own if you prefer. Make certain it is complete, in good condition, fully waterproof, and that you are familiar with its use.
•Backpack-Most of our hiking will be done on-trail, so either an internal or external frame model is fine. Most important is that it fits well and is comfortable when fully loaded. Make sure it's big enough-5000-6000 cubic inches is recommended. The goal should be to get everything inside the pack, not tied to the outside where it could be easily lost or damaged. Consider adding external side-pockets to increase capacity and give you a place for hard-to-pack items like fuel bottles.
•Backpack rain cover-Remember, backpacks are not waterproof. You should waterproof everything within the pack, and/or use a cover of coated nylon. A heavy duty trash bag works well when the pack isn't being worn.
•Sleeping bag-This is your ultimate insulating layer and final refuge when everything else is wet and cold.Yellowstone can, and does, receive snow during any month of the year. Choose a bag that's rated to at least 15 degrees. If you know you get cold at night, go to a 0 degree rating. We highly recommend a synthetic bag rather than one one insulated with down. Some portions of the park receive 80 inches of rain per year, and early season courses are guaranteed to be wet. Even geese get cold when their down gets soaked. If you plan on using a down bag, consider adding a breathable, waterproof bivi bag.
•Sleeping bag stuff sack or compression sack-Line it with a trash compactor bag and you are almost guaranteed a warm, dry night of sleep.
•Sleeping pad -A lightweight closed cell foam pad or a self-inflating Therm-a-Rest style mattress is essential. It provides comfort, and, more importantly, insulates you from the ground.
Clothing:
We suggest a series of layered garments that can be mixed and matched to suit the ever-changing conditions. Make sure outer layers fit comfortably over the base layers. For light weight and the ability to insulate when wet, synthetics are the way to go. Bring items of nylon, polypropylene, fleece pile, or good quality wool. Although cotton is a wonderful fabric for staying cool in a desert environment, it can be useless or downright dangerous when conditions are damp, cold, or windy. Early season courses are often quite wet, and afternoon thunder showers are a common occurrence throughout the summer. Staying warm and dry in Yellowstone is a year-round challenge. Don't make it harder by trying to do it in cotton short, jeans, or a tee-shirt. Cotton and cotton blends are not suitable for the Yellowstone backcountry.
Head and hands:
•Sun hat or baseball cap-A wide brim is best for protection from the sun at higher altitudes.
•Pile or wool stocking cap-For those cold mornings and evenings, and to sleep in at night. If you get cold easily you could add a fleece neck gaiter or balaclava.
•Mosquito head net-Fine mesh with a drawstring works best. You might not need it, but they weigh only a few grams and can make or break a trip. If the bugs aren't bad you can always use it for straining pasta.
•Gloves or mittens-One pair is probably sufficient for cold mornings. Light wool or synthetic.
Upper-body layers:
You will need something to hike in, rain and wind protection, plus a minimum of three insulating layers.
•Polyester/Capilene tee-shirt, or nylon travel shirt-(Not considered an insulating layer) This could be a light, short-sleeved, synthetic tee for hiking. Or, you might consider the Suplex nylon long-sleeved hiking/travel shirts. They are light and cool and dry very quickly. Plus they have pockets. You can also turn up the collar or roll down the sleeves for sun and bug protection.
•Light or mid-weight underwear top-Long-sleeve top of polypropylene, Capilene, or a similar fabric. Just right for sleeping in or as the base layer of insulation.
•Mid-weight pile or wool sweater-Polartec 100 or 200 weight pull-over, or expedition weight polypropylene top. A tightly knit wool sweater will work also, but is bulkier.
•Pile jacket or insulated coat-Such as a Polartec 300 weight zip-front, or an insulated coat with a synthetic fill. A down coat may be adequate in late summer, but is not suitable for the wet early season. All your other insulating layers should fit under this one.
•Pile or synthetic fill vest-(Optional) If you know you get cold easily consider adding this additional half layer. It should not be considered a substitute for one of your regular insulating layers.
•Nylon wind shirt-A lightweight, breathable layer that blocks the wind and the bugs. It is acceptable to use a Gore-Tex or other breathable rain layer as a substitute for wind gear, but it can be nice to have something lighter and cooler for those occasional hot, buggy afternoons.
•Rain coat-Full length, hooded parka of coated nylon or waterproof, breathable fabric such as Gore-Tex. Make sure it fits over everything else and really does keep you dry. A poncho is not adequate.
Lower-body layers:
You will need shorts or pants to hike in, as well as wind and rain layers, and two insulating layers.
•Nylon shorts or pants-One pair is plenty. They should be sturdy, but lightweight, and quick drying. They may double as swimming trunks. Nylon pants with zip-off legs are a good choice. Underwear is a matter of personal preference. Many men seem to prefer hiking shorts with a built-in mesh liner. Women and men might want to consider all the new synthetic fabrics being used in undergarments. Again I would strongly suggest you avoid cotton. It gets wet and stays wet and can lead to chafing.
•Light or mid-weight long underwear bottoms-Polypropylene or similar material. For sleeping or as a base insulating layer.
•Expedition weight polypropylene long underwear bottoms or fleece pants-Your main insulating layer when the snow starts to fly or on that third day of constant rain and wind. Fleece pants often have side leg zippers that make adding or removing this layer easier.
•Nylon wind pants-A light weight, breathable pant to fend off wind, sun, bugs, and brush. Pants of Gore-Tex or similar breathable fabrics can serve as a substitute for wind pants but can be too warm. Whatever the fabric, look for side leg zippers or a pant style that is easy to get on and off over your hiking boots.
•Rain pants-Coated, waterproof nylon, or a breathable fabric such as Gore-Tex. Here too look for side leg zippers or a style that will allow you to remove the pants without removing your boots.
Footwear:
•Hiking boots-Volumes have been written about choosing and properly fitting boots. It seems to be a topic that generates strong opinions and no shortage of erroneous information. It is obviously an important matter and may well be your most significant equipment decision. There is no need to expound on what improper boots can do to your trip. Simply put, they could spoil the entire experience.
We won't attempt to summarize all the current thinking about boots here. We will, instead, refer you to the existing literature and offer a few thoughts that might help.
For this trip you will need sturdy boots designed for rigorous backpacking. Light hikers or cross-training shoes will not be sufficient. They should have a lugged sole to provide traction. The soles should also be stiff enough to prevent rock bruises and stress fractures even while carrying a heavy pack. The uppers should be stiff enough to provide support and protect the foot from a battering among the rocks. Additionally, they must be comfortable to wear for hours on end.
If you already have a pair of boots that fits this description, a pair you have used successfully on similar trips in the past, consider yourself lucky. Bring them; they will probably be fine. If, on the other hand, you need to purchase new boots for this trip, we recommend you do so as soon as possible, then wear them often before the course. If they have been properly fitted they will not need much breaking in, but wearing them a lot should alert you to potential problems before you start down the trail.
•Fitting boots-We recommend you buy boots a full size or more larger than your normal shoe size. This will allow you to pad and protect your feet inside the boots with two pairs of socks. We have had excellent results wearing two pairs of thick wool, or wool-blend, socks. Others prefer one pair of thick socks combined with light wool or synthetic liners. Either way, with two pairs of socks the foot's natural movement within the boots can still take place, but with less blister-causing friction.
•Socks-We recommend you bring three "sets" of socks for hiking and another pair for your camp shoes. If your hiking boots are fitted for two heavy pairs, this means seven pairs total. If you are fitted for a heavy pair and a liner, it means four heavy pairs and three liners. Whatever your system, bring plenty. Get quality wool or wool-synthetic blends. They cost more, but the good ones last a long time. Cotton or cotton blends are not acceptable.
•Camp shoes-Light weight tennis, running, or approach shoes. Not only does it feel great to get out of your boots at the end of the day, light camp shoes will reduce our impact on the soils and vegetation around camp. Tevas or other open-toed sandals will work, but leave your feet more susceptible to injuries.
•Gaiters-If you don't normally wear gaiters for summer hiking you will find they are great for keeping rocks, dirt, and mud out of your boots. Clean boots and socks will dramatically decrease your chance of blisters. Gaiters also reduce our impact while hiking by allowing us to stay on the main trail even through those wet, muddy sections. Tall gaiters provide more protection and double for winter use, but the short styles are cooler in the summer.
Cooking, eating, and drinking: (If you are attending the course with a spouse or other companions some of these items will, of course, be shared.)
•Cup-An insulated, plastic mug with a lid works best.
•Bowl-Sturdy plastic. A tight fitting lid will allow you to carry your leftover pancakes or other lunch/trail food.
•Utensils. Keep it simple. A spoon to eat with, possibly a larger spoon, spatula, and small folding knife for cooking. A small plastic pot scraper can simplify clean-up. Also, a wire mesh strainer makes it easy to separate food bits from gray water while washing up.
•Cooking kit-You won't need an elaborate kit; bring only the pots and pans you will need for your specific meals. A 2qt. pot and a small fry pan with one lid for both is usually plenty. Don't forget the pot grippers.
•Food storage bag-Park regulations, and common sense, dictate that all food and food preparation items be hung beyond the reach of bears whenever they are not being used or transported. Bring a sturdy duffel bag or similar item with handles for attaching a rope. It should be big enough to hold all your food and cooking gear. Lining it with a heavy duty plastic garbage bag will reduce odors and help keep your food dry. We will supply the ropes.
•Water bottles-Two wide-mouth, 1qt. plastic bottles, or some sort of hydration system with a 2qt. capacity for staying hydrated on the trail.
•Water bag-A large volume water container will simplify your life in camp and reduce the number of time-consuming, bank-eroding trips to and from the water source. The MSR "Dromedary" bags are great.
•Water treatment-All the water we consume in the backcountry will need to be treated in some way. The primary organism we have to eliminate is Giardia lamblia. This can be accomplished by boiling the water, treating it chemically, or filtering. Boiling all our water is impractical. It would use up far too much time and fuel. Iodine or chlorine based treatments are effective, simple, and readily available. "Potable Aqua" and "Aqua Mira" are a couple of the more popular brands. Bring enough to treat at least 4-6 quarts of water a day per person. If you opt to use a filter make sure it has a fresh cartridge designed to remove protozoa and bacteria. Be certain it is in good working order and that you know how to clean and repair it. Filters are notorious for breaking down when you need them most. We suggest you bring a back-up supply of chemical treatment as well.
Miscellaneous personal gear:
Toilet articles:
•Soap-A very small bottle of good, biodegradable, liquid soap should take care of all your needs for a few days. Avoid scented products, especially those with food scents like peppermint and almond.
•Comb or brush
•Toothbrush and toothpaste-A small travel-size toothpaste is plenty. A small container of baking soda also works well and has less odor.
•Bandana-One or two cotton bandanas for a variety of uses.
•Foot repair kit-Your instructor team will be carrying first aid kits, but you may want a personal supply of band-aids, mole-skin, tape, etc. for blister prevention and treatment.
•Tampons
•Prescription medications
•Extra eye glasses
•Contact lenses and solutions
Waste disposal:
•Trowel-Our strategy for the disposal of solid human waste will be to bury the waste in individual "cat holes." (We will talk more about this on the first morning of the course.) A small trowel or garden spade will help us accomplish this task. Plastic trowels are lightweight, but do not hold up well. "U-Dig-It" brand makes a sturdy metal one with a folding handle.
•Toilet paper-Though it may not seem like it to most, this is an optional item. If you will be using toilet paper you will have to make provisions to pack the soiled paper back out. Burning and burying the paper are not viable options. Burning creates a serious fire hazard, while buried paper breaks down very slowly and is often dug up and scattered by animals. The easiest way to pack it out is to bring along a couple zip-lock bags, double bag the used paper, and transport it in a small nylon stuff sack. This same approach should be employed with used tampons.
•Garbage bags-The plastic bags you have used to repackage your food can be reused to transport garbage and food scraps, but you might need one or two empties to get you started.
Other essentials:
•Bear spray-We strongly suggest you carry a canister of bear deterrent spray. While the chances of a confrontation with a bear are indeed remote, it is important to be prepared for such an event; pepper sprays are deemed the most effective, non-lethal response. Look for an aerosol spray designed specifically as a bear deterrent, one containing a minimum of 10% Capsicum, and having an effective range of at least 25' - 30'. Carefully read all the manufacturer's instructions and precautions, and familiarize yourself with its use. Make sure it has an effective "safety" mechanism and a holster or some means of securing it to the hipbelt of your pack or other easily accessible location. We will address the topic of bear safety during the first day of the course.
•Sunglasses-Eye-damaging ultraviolet light is more intense at higher elevations. Good quality sunglasses with 100% UV protection are a must. A hard case and "Chums" or some sort of retainer will protect your investment.
•Sunscreen-Bring plenty and use it liberally.
•Flashlight or headlamp-Remember extra batteries and bulb.
•Wrist watch with an alarm-we will have some early starts and will need to stay organized as a group.
Optional items to consider:
•Insect repellent-mosquitoes can be intense during the early season and common throughout the summer, but some people find the repellent more objectionable than the bugs. Covering up is a good alternative.
•Camera-think about how you will protect it from rough handling and the elements. Also keep your total pack weight in mind.
•Light weight binoculars or spotting scope-the Institute will provide one or two spotting scopes for group use.
•Trekking poles or hiking staff
•Notebook or journal
•"Crazy Creek" chair-or something similar to sit on.
•Towel-those super absorbent "pack-towels" are handy for clean up.
Please don't bring:
•Cell phones. It is unlikely you will get a signal anyway. We have made other provisions for emergency communications.
•Stereos or radios
•Perfumes and deodorants
•Large knives or hatchets
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